Installations, repairs and inspections for homes, rented property and commercial premises — with the testing and certification that goes with each one.
Not sure which of these you need? Describe the problem on 07411 349903 and we will tell you — including when the answer is that you do not need us yet.
Electrical Installations
New wiring and equipment, tested and certificated
Installation work covers anything that adds to or replaces the fixed wiring in a property — a new circuit, a new board, extra sockets, a lighting scheme, a supply out to a garage. The visible part is quick; the part that matters is the design behind it. Cable size, protective device, earthing arrangement and the route the cable takes all have to suit the load and the conditions, and all of it gets tested and written up before you are handed a certificate.
Consumer unit upgrades
New circuits
Sockets & USB outlets
Internal lighting
Outdoor & security lighting
Garage & shed supplies
EV charger supplies
Extractor fans
Electric showers
Cooker circuits
Full & partial rewires
Smoke & heat alarms
Around the home
Extra sockets where the extension leads have taken over
Kitchen and utility circuits for ovens, hobs and appliances
Bathroom lighting, fans and shower circuits
Downlights, under-cabinet and feature lighting
Outside sockets, garden lighting and security floodlights
Interlinked mains-powered smoke and heat alarms
Bigger installation work
Consumer unit replacement with RCD or RCBO protection
Full rewires, and partial rewires where only some circuits are tired
Sub-mains out to garages, offices and outbuildings
Dedicated circuits for EV charge points
Commercial lighting installs and upgrades
Distribution board work for shops, offices and units
On certification: installation work is issued with the appropriate certificate — an Electrical Installation Certificate for new circuits and consumer units, or a Minor Electrical Installation Works Certificate for smaller alterations. Keep it. You will want it when you sell, remortgage or let the property.
The difference between a repair that lasts and one that comes back is whether anyone found the actual cause. Swapping a socket because a socket is dead often just moves the problem along. Proper fault finding uses insulation resistance and continuity testing to isolate the section of circuit at fault, so what gets replaced is what is broken.
Common faults we get called to
RCD tripping — repeatedly, or only at certain times
An MCB that will not stay on
Dead sockets or a whole ring that has gone off
Lights flickering, dimming or failing in groups
Switches, sockets or fittings that are hot or discoloured
Buzzing or crackling from a fitting or the board
Outdoor lights and sockets that stop working after rain
Shower or cooker circuits tripping under load
How the fault gets traced
Establish what is affected and when — this narrows it fast
Safe isolation before anything is opened up
Split the circuit and test each section to locate the fault
Distinguish an appliance fault from a wiring fault
Repair or replace the faulty section or accessory
Re-test to confirm the circuit is sound before it goes back on
If you smell burning or see scorching: switch that circuit off at the consumer unit and stop using it. Do not keep resetting a breaker that trips again after a burning smell — repeated resetting into a fault is how a loose connection becomes a fire. Ring 07411 349903.
An inspection tells you the condition of what is already there. It is a mix of visual inspection and instrument testing — checking earthing and bonding, the condition of the consumer unit, the state of accessories and cable, and whether the protective devices will actually disconnect quickly enough if something goes wrong. The output is a report listing anything found, coded by severity.
What gets checked
Consumer unit — type, condition and protective devices
Earthing arrangement and main protective bonding
Continuity, insulation resistance and polarity on each circuit
Earth fault loop impedance and RCD operating times
Condition of accessories, fittings and accessible cable
Signs of overheating, damage or DIY alterations
What you get back
A written EICR with a satisfactory or unsatisfactory outcome
Every observation coded C1, C2, C3 or FI
Schedules of inspection and test results
A plain-English explanation of what actually needs doing
A price for any remedial work, kept separate from the report
EICRs and landlord electrical safety checks
Landlords in England have a legal duty to have the fixed electrical installation in rented property inspected and tested at intervals of no more than five years, to supply a copy of the report to tenants, and to carry out any remedial work identified as C1, C2 or FI within 28 days — or sooner if the report specifies. That makes turnaround matter: if a tenancy is waiting on the report, say so when you ring and we will work to the deadline.
Typical inspection intervals. Your insurer, mortgage lender or licensing scheme may specify something shorter — their requirement takes precedence.
Property type
Common interval
Notes
Rented home (England)
Every 5 years
Legal requirement. Report given to tenants; C1, C2 and FI items remedied within 28 days.
Owner-occupied home
Every 10 years
Not compulsory, but sensible — especially before or after a purchase, or before major work.
Shop, office or unit
Every 5 years
Also commonly required at change of occupancy or by an insurer.
Change of occupancy
Before the let or sale
Gives you a documented condition at handover, and avoids inheriting someone else's faults.
Swipe the table sideways to see all columns.
PAT testing
Separate from the fixed wiring, portable appliance testing covers the equipment that plugs in — office kit, kitchen appliances, tools, equipment in rented furnished property. It is a check on plugs, leads, casings and earthing on individual items, and it is what an employer or letting agent is usually asked for alongside the EICR.
We price each job on what it involves rather than publishing a rate card that turns out not to apply. These are the things that move the number up or down.
Scale of the job One accessory swap versus twelve circuits tested and recorded are different pieces of work, and the certification effort scales with it too.
Access to the wiring A bungalow with a loft and a suspended floor is far quicker to run cable in than a first-floor flat with solid floors and a plastered ceiling.
Condition of what's there A board change on sound wiring is straightforward. A board change that uncovers borrowed neutrals or no earth at the lights needs that fixed first.
Materials specified Standard white accessories and a mid-range consumer unit cost less than brushed steel, smart controls or a specific manufacturer's board.
Fault finding time A permanent fault is usually located quickly. An intermittent one that only appears in the rain takes longer, and we will tell you the likely time before starting.
Making good Chasing walls and lifting floors means plaster and boards to reinstate. We keep it to a minimum and tell you what will need decorating afterwards.
No surprise invoices. You get a price before work starts. If something is found part-way through that changes the job — and on older properties it sometimes is — the work stops and you are told what it means before anything else happens.
Service FAQs
Questions about the work itself
How long does a consumer unit replacement take?
A straightforward domestic consumer unit change is normally a day's work. The board itself is swapped in a couple of hours, but the time goes into testing every circuit afterwards and recording the results on the certificate.
If testing uncovers a pre-existing fault — a borrowed neutral, damaged cable or poor earthing — that has to be put right before the new board can be signed off, which can add time. You will be told before that work is done, not afterwards.
What do the codes C1, C2 and C3 mean on an EICR?
C1 — danger present. Risk of injury. Immediate action required.
C2 — potentially dangerous. Remedial work required.
C3 — improvement recommended. Not a failure, and it does not make the report unsatisfactory.
FI — further investigation required without delay.
A report is unsatisfactory if it contains any C1, C2 or FI. C3 items alone still give a satisfactory result.
Do I need a full rewire or just some of the circuits?
It depends on what the testing shows. Properties are often part-rewired — for example the original lighting circuits are past their life but the sockets were replaced during a previous extension or kitchen fit.
Rubber, lead or fabric-covered cable, no earth at the light switches, and a fuse board with rewireable fuses all point towards a full rewire. An inspection first tells you which of the two you are actually dealing with, so you are not paying for work that does not need doing.
Can you find a fault if the electrics only play up sometimes?
Yes, though intermittent faults take longer than a permanent one. Things that come and go are usually moisture-related, thermal, or caused by a connection that only loses contact under load or vibration.
It helps enormously if you note when it happens — after rain, when the shower runs, when a particular appliance starts. Bring that information to the call and it narrows the search considerably.
Tell us what needs doing
Installation, repair or inspection — ring or email with the details and your area of Milton Keynes, and you will get a straight answer on what it involves and what it costs.